Var produces 80% of France's black truffles (tuber melanosporum), thanks to its limestone soils and dry summers. Aups, the truffle capital, organizes its Thursday market from mid-November to mid-March: an institution where chefs, individuals, brokers cross paths around the famous black diamond.
Beyond the market itself, the Var truffle experience is multi-faceted: dawn hunts with a trifolau and his dog, lunch in a truffle restaurant where every dish is shaved with fresh truffle, visits to truffle oak plantations, even DIY: bring home a fresh truffle and prepare it yourself.
Black truffle season runs from mid-November to mid-March. Peak aroma intensity: late December to mid-February. This is when you should come — the truffle reaches its full power, and the rituals around it are at their most intense.
Truffle hunting with a trifolau
The most authentic experience: a 1.5-2h morning outing with a professional trifolau (truffle hunter) and his dog (or, more rarely, his pig).
- Setting: oak woods in the Aups area, on private plantations.
- What happens: the trifolau explains the symbiosis between oak and truffle, lets the dog work, you collect the truffles together.
- Includes: a tasting at the end (truffled toast, truffled omelette, glass of local wine).
- Pricing: €60-100 per person for 2-4 people. €80-130 per person for solos.
- Lead time: 5-10 days in season, more on weekends.
Best season: late December to mid-February (peak truffle). Outings happen rain or shine, so bring boots, warm clothes, a raincoat. Children from 8 enjoy it (the dog is the star).
Aups market: the truffle capital
Aups (Haut-Var, 1h from the coast) holds the largest truffle market in France:
- Day: Thursday morning, mid-November to mid-March.
- Time: 9am-12pm. Best to arrive early (9-10am) before professionals exhaust the best lots.
- What's sold: fresh black truffles (50g to 500g pieces), truffle preserves, truffle oils, truffle salts.
- Prices: €600-1,200 per kilo fresh in season (the rate varies daily based on supply/quality).
- How to buy: smell intensely (a good truffle has a powerful aroma), feel firmness (a fresh truffle is firm, not soft), check the white veins (sign of maturity).
Tip: the day before is the 'wholesalers' market' where buyers come from Paris, London, New York. Thursday morning is the public market. Both are open to all but Thursday is more visitor-friendly.
Truffle restaurants in Var
From mid-November to mid-March, several Var addresses build their menu around truffle:
- Chez Bruno, Lorgues (the historic reference): truffle menus from €90 to €220. Cult since 1983.
- L'Hostellerie de l'Abbaye de la Celle (1 Michelin star): refined truffle dishes, all courses possible. €130-280 menu.
- Auberge Provençale, Aups: family-run, generous truffle dishes, €45-95 menu.
- Bistrot du Marché, Cogolin: more accessible, truffle plates from €35.
- Many other restaurants in season — we organize the right address based on your budget and group.
Booking: 2-3 weeks ahead for starred tables in season. Last-minute often possible for smaller restaurants.
Buy, cook, take home truffles
For DIY home truffle:
- Buy at Aups market: pick a 50-100g truffle (€35-90 piece) — perfect for 2-4 people.
- Preservation: keep airtight in rice or with eggs for 5-7 days max. Don't wash.
- Cooking: shave thinly over scrambled eggs, fresh pasta, risotto, mashed potatoes, poultry. NEVER cook the truffle directly — heat destroys the aroma. Shave at the last second.
- Travel: declared truffle is fine in cabin luggage. Aluminium foil + airtight container.
We can also ship a fresh truffle to your home (within France or Europe) — overnight cold chain. €25-45 shipping.
Frequently asked questions
Best time to come for truffles?
Peak season: late December to mid-February. The truffle is most aromatic. Aups market is liveliest January-February.
How much for a fresh truffle?
Around €600-1,200 per kilo at market in season. A 50-100g piece (€35-100) is enough for 2-4 people.
Is the dog hunt impressive?
Yes — the dog is trained from puppyhood. Total complicity with its master. Outings happen morning, in oak and pine woods.
Truffles in summer?
Black truffle: no, only in winter. Summer truffle (tuber aestivum) exists but is less aromatic. Some chefs use it anyway.
Cooking truffle myself: hard?
No — the rule is to shave thinly at the very last moment, over warm (not hot) dishes. The cooking of the base ingredient is normal; the truffle is added at service.